Simón José Antonio de la Santísima Trinidad Bolívar y Palacios Ponte y Blanco, or simply Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), was born into a wealthy Venezuelan family. At age 14, he entered the military academy, and then spent several years in Europe before returning to Venezuela in 1807. In 1810, the Congress of United Provinces of New Granada gave him command of an independence army. Bolívar soon earned himself the nickname “El Libertador” (the Liberator). For the next decade and half, he led battle from Angostura (now Ciudad Bolívar) in Venezuela to Ayacucho, Peru. During these years he faced a temporary exile and various assassination attempts.

A statue ot Bolívar in Washington, USA (Simon Bolivar by cliff1066)

The first Congress of Gran Colombia (1821), uniting Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador, was held in Villa del Rosario, near Cucutá in Colombia; Bolívar was elected President. Gran Colombia, however, was doomed to failure. Once the common enemy–the Spanish–was vanquished, petty regional rivalries surfaced almost immediately which tore the young nation apart. Disheartened by Gran Colombia’s demise, Bolívar journeyed down the Río Magdalena, making his way to his native Caracas. By the time he reached Santa Marta, he was weak. He was given refuge at Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, where he died of tuberculosis. His body was laid out for public viewing in Santa Marta’s Casa de la Aduana, and then buried in the Cathedral. In 1839 his body was transferred to his native Caracas.

Santa Marta Cathedral by J. Stephen Conn

Besides many plazas being named for Bolívar, Colombia has other sites honoring him: Quinta Bolívar in BogotáCasa de Bolívar in Bucaramanga and Museo Bolivariano-Casa de Bolivar in Soledad, near Barranquilla.  Today, Bolívar’s philosophies continue to be influential in the Bolivariano countries (so-called for those he liberated: Venezuela, Colombia, Panama, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia) and elsewhere in Latin America.

Bolívar's death bed (Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino by kmuller00)

There’s a murder mystery happening in the North of Peru that has caught the attention of even the BBC, CNN, Mother Jones and other international news agencies. It has nothing to do with van der Sloot. The victims are not young women—but rather thousands of dolphins and pelicans on the north coast, from near Chiclayo northward to Paita and beyond.

 

Since January of this year, over 900 dolphins have washed ashore, according to CNN, BBC, AP and other news agencies. However, Julia Whitty of Mother Jones reports a higher figure: over 3,000, based on the on-the-ground research of the marine environmental groups, Bluevoice.org and ORCA Peru. In a single day in late March, investigators of these two organizations found 615 dead dolphins on a 135-kilometer (84-mile) stretch of coast. The most affected species are Burmeister’s porpoises, of which only females and calves are being affected, and common dolphins (both genders, all ages).

In April, a twist was added to the mystery, when more than 4,450 pelicans also began appearing dead on the beaches, or wandering aimlessly on the strands and the highways.

 

Investigations into the causes of death have been slow, especially in the case of the dolphins. The carcasses are often too decayed to permit proper necropsies.

An offshore natural gas platform at Cabo Blanco. Photo by Lorraine Caputo

Early on, government officials dismissed possible poisoning by the oil companies, which have extensively been exploiting petroleum and natural gas reserves in northern Peru. But the study of 30 dead dolphins done by marine biologist Dr. Carlos Yaipen Llanos of ORCA Peru doesn’t let the petroleum industry off the hook. He discovered broken inner ear bones and hemorrhaging of various internal organs. Both indicate “acoustic impact and decompression syndrome,” which could be caused by sonar used to find offshore wells. Houston-based BPZ Energy, which uses such technology, denies this claim.

Other possible culprits of these mass die-offs are brucella and leptospira bacteria, and morbillivirus, a viral infection similar to distemper. Peru, however, has limited access to kits to detect these diseases.

Scientists have also raised the possibility of runoff of agrochemical or heavy metals from mining—both of which have become important industries in Peru’s north. However, Raul Castillo, director of the IMARPE (Instituto del Mar del Perú, the governmental sea institute) said that two necropsies performed ruled out pesticides and such heavy metals as copper, lead and cadmium, as well as three marine biotoxins.

 

This week, governmental authorities said that the lack of food has been the cause of the pelicans’ deaths. Biologist Carlos Bocanegra, of the Universidad Nacional de Trujillo, supports this theory. His necropsies of 10 pelicans showed either empty digestive tracts or remains of fish not normally part of pelicans’ diets. Fishermen of Puerto Etén, near Chiclayo, have reported that in the past month their catches of anchoveta (anchovies) have dropped to nearly zero. This cold-water fish is the main food source of pelicans.

The cold Humboldt Current hugs South America’s coast as far north as Máncora, where it then veers westward, to the Galápagos Islands. When the sea warms, as during an El Niño event, anchovies move to deeper, colder oceans. Independent environmental scientists, however, point out that the region has been experiencing a La Niña climate system the past two years, during which seas are colder than normal, and that seas normal temperatures now are returning.

 

Could this mass murder, though, have begun months earlier and with different species? When this reporter was on the Peru’s Northern coast in October 2011, I noticed dozens of sea lion carcasses rotting on the beaches near Paita and populations of blue-footed boobies were noticeably absent. At the time, locals put the blame on fishermen, who—they said—considered both animals as thieves of their catches. A few said it was because of the oil exploration, which had skyrocketed in the past three years.

 

Because clean-up of the carcasses have been slow and the cause of death is still unknown, authorities have closed beaches along Peru’s northern coast, from Lima to the Ecuadorian border. These include popular surfing destinations Huanchaco and Máncora. Cleanup crews have been instructed to where protective clothing. If you plan on doing any surfing or sunning, check local conditions before hitting the beach.

 

Lorraine Caputo is one of V!VA’s longest-tenured writers. These days, she’s back on the road, updating our 2012 edition of  V!VA Peru. Check the blog for more of her updates from the road.

 

 

After 16 years, ferry service between Cartagena, Colombia, and Colón, Panamá, has resumed. This service, which will begin May 10, now will give travelers the most economical way to travel between South and Central America.

 

For a short time in the mid-1990s, travelers could rely on the Crucero Express to safely shuttle them from Central America to South America. At the time, it was a god-send: Just a few years earlier, it became prohibitively dangerous to walk the Darien Gap, the jungle between the two countries, and most backpackers could not afford the airfare between Panama and Colombia. The only other choice was to find a way to Puerto Obaldía, the last Caribbean Coast town in Panama, then take the chalupas (twin-engine speedboats) down the coast to Turbo. In that decade, though, that trip was not without its adventures. But suddenly, without reason, the Crucero Express ceased operations in November 1996.

 

Now the Greek-staffed Nissos Rodos will be making the trip. Service begins May 10, 2012. The passenger-cargo ferry has a capacity for 1,484 passengers, 500 autos and 2,000 meters of cargo space, with the capacity to haul 175 shipping containers. The ship will sail from Cartagena, Colombia, on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday, and from Colón, Panamá, on Monday, Thursday and Saturday. It will leave port at 6 a.m. and arrive at approximately 6 p.m.

 

Passengers have the choice of traveling in reserved seat ($99-119), dormitory ($209) or private cabin ($598-678). Reservations must be made at least 48 hours in advance, with payment.

In Cartagena, reservations may be made with Promised Land Tours (Calle de la Media Luna 10-113, Getsemaní. Tel: 57-5-660-2565, Cel: 57-300-449-1906 / 317-355-1186, E-mail: reservas.promisedlandtours@gmail.com, URL: http://promisedlandtours.webnode.es). The agent in Panama City is Pan American Seaways (Tel: 209-2000 / 380-0900 and via or E-mail: reservas@panaferry.com, URL: www.panaferry.com).

 

Find out more about the Colombia-Panama Border Crossings and Colombia in VIVA’s new Colombia Adventure Guide, available in a variety of e-book applications directly from VIVA, as well as in print format from Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble.

 

The smell of tangy oranges, the taste of smooth coffee and the sound of bird song can all be found in the impressive green lands of the Zona Cafetera that lies approximately 160 kilometers (100 mi) north-west of Bogota in central Colombia. Made up of valleys filled with bamboo, mountain peaks that tickle the sky and rolling landscapes, this coffee-growing region is throbbing with natural life, tranquility and adventure.

Zona Cafetera

The Zona Cafetera is a place to indulge the senses—from hot thermal springs to the cold Valle de Cocora; sweet berries to bitterly rich coffee-all the while spoiling yourself in one of the region’s beautiful haciendas. Manizales, Pereira and Armenia are the capitals of the departments that make up the Zona Cafetera, and each provides a different take on the many riches Colombia has to offer.

Parque del Cafe

In Manizales, a treacherous trip to the top of La Basílica is a must. Near Pereira, travelers should set aside a full day in the Parque del Café or spend a few hours basking in the hot thermal springs of Santa Rosa. The Museo del Oro Quimbaya in Armenia remains one of Colombia’s best-preserved and most organized gold collections. Also of note is Salento, a small town tucked neatly beside a mountain, where farm-grown trout is deliciously served on a large patacón (fried plantain).

Colombia - Hiking through the Valley de Cocora, near Salento_by Eliduke

 

Find out more about the Zona Cafetera and Colombia in VIVA’s new Colombia Adventure Guideavailable in a variety of e-book applications directly from VIVA, as well as in print format from Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble.

Last week, I filled you in on 10 free attractions awaiting travelers in Arequipa. But many tourists arrive here to do some trekking in the Colca Canyon. The recent increase of the canyon’s entry fee to a staggering $26 for non-Latin Americans will leave many shoestring travelers in the dust.

 

Not to fear, though. Arequipa’s campiña (countryside) offers several great opportunities to get out of the city for some fresh sunshine and incredible vistas. The awards along the way include waterfalls, ancient rock paintings and traditional villages.

El Misti from Yanahuara’s mirador. Photo by Lorraine Caputo

Two miradores just west of downtown give splendid views of the volcanoes: one in Yanahuara (2 km / 1.2 mi from downtown Arequipa) and another called Carmen Alto (6.7 km / 4 mi north of Ca Puente Grau and Av Bolognesi; follow the signs).

 

In the Cayma district west of Arequipa, a 15-kilometer (9.2-mile) Inca trail runs through the Valle de Chilina, along west bank of the Río Chili to the Santuario La Virgen de Chapi de Charcani (General Varela 1070, Acequia, Alta Cayma). Along the way are waterfalls, and places to rock climb and fish. There is one campsite.

 

Cayma’s Oficina de Desarrollo Turístico publishes a rough map of the route (Plaza de Cayma 408, Cayma. Tel: 054-254-648, E-mail: turismo@municayma.gob.pe, URL: www.municayma.gob.pe).

 

The Valle de Chilina may also be hiked along the eastern bank of the river. From downtown Arequipa, walk north to Parque Selva Alegre, turn left to the end of that road, then right at the end of that one. Continue straight and take the third path down. This road also leads hikers through a landscape of ancient terraced farm fields, forests and scrub-brush lands overshadowed by Chachani and El Misti volcanoes.

Paisaje Arequipeño. Photo by Carlos Zúñiga.

Just to the southeast of Arequipa is the Ruta del Loncco, places where you may hike through the bucolic countryside, to waterfalls, petroglyphs (petroglifos) and traditional villages. Yarabamba (15 km / 9 mi from Arequipa) are the Petroglifos Gayalopo y Guanaqueros. A few kilometers to the south is Quequeña, where you may hike to the Petroglifos Cerro Boracho, Trompín Chico and Quebrada de la Zorra creek. Further south is Sogay, with waterfalls. In these towns, there are campsites.

 

These villages’ websites have more information about their attractions: Yarabamba (URL: http://www.peru.gob.pe/Nuevo_Portal_Municipal/portales/municipalidades/358/entidad/pm_municipalidad_tematicos.asp?cod_tema=39505), Quequeña (URL: www.muniquequena.gob.pe) and Sogay (URL: www.sogayarequipa.com). Minibuses for Yarabamba and Quequeña pass by Venezuela and Avenida Mariscal Castilla ($0.60).

Waterfall. Photo by Carlos Zúñiga.

Any of these hikes may be done as day trips from Arequipa. Bring along food (a picnic would be perfect) and water, sun protection (hat, sun screen) and good walking shoes. Keep valuables back at the hostel. The more tranquil hikes are in the three villages south of the city.

 

 

Lorraine Caputo is one of V!VA’s longest-tenured writers. These days, she’s back on the road, updating our 2012 edition of  V!VA Peru. Check the blog for more of her updates from the road.

 

 

In many ways Colombia‘s capital, Bogotá, epitomizes the Latin American city, with its mix of crumbling colonial architecture and modern office blocks, vast divide between the rich and poor, and soaring population. The third highest capital city in the world (it stands at 2,600 meters – 8,530 ft – above sea level), it is both highly cosmopolitan and, in some regards, stuck in the past. With much to attract the artist, the historian and the pleasure-seeker, Bogotá has become a big destination for world travelers.

Bogotá by night

Though it may not immediately appeal (the daily rain and cloudy skies may have something to do with this), give it time and Bogotá will surely win you over with its abundance of museums, beautiful churches and plazas, sprawling parks, first-class cuisine, and, of course, its famous nightlife. In addition, you will find a thriving art and music scene. Any trip to Bogota should incorporate the historic and cultural center of La Candelaria; the world-renowned Museo del Oro; northern Bogota (in particular Parque de la 93, the Zona T and the Zona Rosa) with its diverse mix of flashy restaurants, bars, clubs and malls; the famous Sunday flea market in Usaquén; and finally, if you’re lucky, a performance at the beautifully ornate Teatro Colon.

Plaza de Bolivar, Bogota by Szeke

Travelers will find that Bogotá has recently undergone a serious makeover, though crime is still prevalent and visitors should be alert around tourist areas and government buildings. However, with massive investments in reviving public spaces, expanding infrastructure and improving social services, the Colombian capital now thrives as a case study of urban transformation in South America.

Old street in La Candelaria by NapaneeGal

Find out more about Bogotá and Colombia in VIVA’s new Colombia Adventure Guideavailable in a variety of e-book applications directly from VIVA, as well as in print format from Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble.

Last week, US President Barack Obama was in the Caribbean city of Cartagena, Colombia for the three-day Summit of the Americas, the sixth such summit since 1994. The last day of the summit, April 15th, saw Obama attend a ceremony in Cartagena’s Plaza San Pedro, in which land ownership titles were restored to representatives of Afro-Colombian families who had been displaced from their homes by armed rebel groups. Cartagena (and Colombia as a whole) has a large Afro-Colombian population, and an estimated 21 percent of the country’s population are of African descent.

Plaza San Pedro_by Urzula Araya

Many of the families involved in the land-ownership ceremony come from the town of San Basilio de Palenque, two hours east of Cartagena. The town was founded by run-away slaves in the late 16th century, and was an important center of resistance against Spanish rule and slavery. It has preserved its cultural traditions well (the town’s language is a unique blend of Congo River languages fused with Spanish), resulting in UNESCO declaring it an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Go in October, where you can savor the annual musical and cultural festival, Festival de Tambores de Palenque. 

Festival de Tambores, San Basilico by Simón Sánchez S

Plaza en San Basilico de Palenque_by Paula

You can find out more about San Basilio de Palenque, Cartagena and Colombia in VIVA’s new Colombia Adventure Guide, available in a variety of e-book applications directly from VIVA, as well as in print format from Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble.

Also, be sure to take a look at award-winning travel journalist Tracy Barnett’s review of VIVA’s new Colombia Adventure Guide on Amazon.com.

Shoestring travelers arriving in Arequipa may feel a bit hogtied. Many of the museums, churches and even Colca Canyon charge entries way beyond the pockets of many who have to watch the céntimos. The Museo de Santuarios Andinos now charges $7.50 to enter and Monsterio de Santa Catalina $13. As of January 1, 2012, Colca Canyon is charging an entry fee of $26 – double what it was the year before.

 

But beyond the looming presence of these star attractions of Arequipa and its region, are things to do and see that don’t charge nary a cent:

 

Arequipa's Cathedral. Photo by Lorraine Caputo

 

The Catedral, La Compañía and other churches are free during mass hours (typically Monday-Saturday 7 a.m.-9 a.m., 6-7:30 p.m., Sunday 6:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m., 4:30-7:30 p.m.). Please respect the services and don’t take photos.

 

Two of Arequipa’s beautiful colonial mansions are free (with no guides to tip) and have art exhibits: Casona Iberry (Ca Santa Catalina 101) and Casa Tristán del Pozo (Ca San Francisco 108). Casa de la Fundación de Fierro, near Iglesia San Francisco, is now an artisans’ market (Monday-Friday 10 a.m.-1 p.m., 3-6 p.m. Ca Puente Grau and Pasaje San Francisco).

 

Casa Tristán del Pozo has a collection of arequipeña watercolors. Photo by Lorraine Caputo

 

More finely preserved colonial architecture, including the ancient Capilla de San Lázaro, is along the narrow streets found in the San Lázaro neighborhood, north of Calle Puente Grau. When the Spaniards arrived, this part of the valley was where the Inca nobility lived. After the Conquest, this continued to be an indigenous neighborhood.

 

Iglesia San Lázaro. Photo by Lorraine Caputo

 

During the Spanish viceroyalty, Yanahuara was another indigenous neighborhood. Its pleasant plaza is a mere 20-minute walk (2 km / 1.2 mi) west of downtown. Along one side is a mirador (viewpoint) of Chachani and El Misti volcanoes and along another side, a 17th century church with an intricately carved façade.

 

Yanahuara's mirador. Photo by Lorraine Caputo


Beyond Yanahuara is Cayma, another historic neighborhood with an 18th-century church and many buildings associated with Inca writer Garcilaso de la Vega and South American Liberation General Simón Bolívar (3 km / 1.8 mi from Arequipa).

 

On many clear days, you can see a plume of smoke rising from Volcán Misti. It is no cloud: the volcano is active, and has registered increased fumarole activity since 2011. To learn more about this and the other active volcanoes towering over the city and the risks they pose, drop by the  Centro de Sensibilización sobre los Riesgos Volcánicos en Arequipa (Monday-Saturday 9 a.m.-6 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Ca La Merced 110).

 

Smoking Misti. Photo by Lorraine Caputo


Museo de Arqueología of the Universidad Católica de Santa María (the same university that  runs the Santuarios Andinos museum) offers a free dose of pre-Columbian finds and dozen mummies. The collection of pinturas rupestres (rock paintings) is quite stunning (Monday-Friday 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Ca Cruz Verde 303, Tel: 221-083).

 

Museo Sala de Exposición Casona Editora Peru highlights the printed arts (Monday-Friday 9 a.m.-1 p.m., 2-5 p.m.).

 

Alpaca and llamas and .. oh, my! Photo by Lorraine Caputo


Mundo Alpaca is devoted to teaching the processing of alpaca and other native fibers, from shearing and sorting, to natural dyes and weaving. Women sit in the patios, sorting the raw wool and weaving intricate designs. Live animals graze in the garden (Alameda San Lázaro 101).

 

Wanting to step out for a flick but can’t afford a ticket to the cinema? Check out the schedule of events at the international cultural centers around town. They often host free movies, art exhibits, theater and other cultural fare. Brazil, France, the US, Germany and Italy all have centers. Art openings, usually held on Thursday evenings, are usually a delicious feast for the eyes—and taste buds.

 

La Alliance Française dishes up French culture in Arequipa. Photo by Lorraine Caputo

 

Lorraine Caputo is one of V!VA’s longest-tenured writers. These days, she’s back on the road, updating our 2012 edition of  V!VA Peru. Check the blog for more of her updates from the road.

Deep in the recesses of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, buried in a mass of undisturbed jungle, lies one of the ancient Tayrona nation’s most impressive cities, Teyuna, or Ciudad Perdida (Lost City).  Founded in around 650 AD, the archaeological site earned its name well, lying undiscovered until as recently as 1972, when local tomb robbers stumbled across it.

 

Trek To Ciudad Perdida The Lost City Colombia_by migpascual

The Ciudad Perdida, which sits at an altitude of 900-1,200 meters (2,953-3,937 ft) and  covers 30 hectares (74 ac), consists of the ruins of over 200 structures, including living quarters, stone roads and staircases, terraces, canals, plazas and ceremonial buildings. The North sector has the oldest buildings, dating to the Neguanje Period (650 AD). Twenty-six other sites have been discovered nearby, in the upper Río Buritaca valley. Because of its size and monumental character, it is believed Teyuna was the political seat for the region. Some archaeologists estimate Teyuna itself had a population of 1,500-2,000 and with the surrounding settlements, the region’s inhabitants numbered over 10,000.

Ciudad Perdida_by Threat to Democracy

It is possible to reach the Ciudad Perdida by a five-day, moderately difficult hike that takes you into incredible rain-forest, across streams and rivers, through Kogi Indian communities, and finally up a set of 1,200 or so steps to the immense ancient site. Treks can be arranged with a local tour operator in Santa Marta or Taganga, and cost from $300.

VIVA’s new Colombia Adventure Guide is available in a variety of e-book applications directly from VIVA, as well as in print format from Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble.

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Walk to Ciudad Perdida_by tyo

Say “Colombia” and most people will immediately think of something negative: drugs, guerrilla warfare, corruption, kidnappings or crime. This is hardly surprising, since these topics have featured heavily in past international press about Colombia. However, conditions in Colombia have improved dramatically in the past decade, and most parts of the country are just as safe to visit as other Latin American countries. But many tourists are unaware of this, meaning—unfortunately—they choose to avoid this gorgeous country.

Zona Cafetera, Colombia

In truth, Colombia is one of the most beautiful countries on the continent, and, if you don’t stray too far from the tourist areas and heed current safety advice, there is no reason why you shouldn’t include Colombia in your itinerary. Tourist numbers have increased greatly in the past few years, from 0.5 million in 2003 to 1.4 million in 2010, and the U.S. State Department declared in 2010 that security conditions had improved significantly. As long as you take precautions, you be well rewarded if you visit Colombia: you’ll find beautiful Caribbean beachesAndean highlands, the Zona Cafetera (Coffee zone), impressive archaeological ruins and fertile rainforest (the latter claims the highest diversity of flora and fauna on the continent after Brazil, making it a perfect spot for nature lovers). Even those places deemed safe and developed for tourism have hardly been touched by outside visitors.

Cartagena, Colombia

It’s not, however, just natural wonders that draw travelers to come here; there’s both vibrant  modern and colonial cities, good food, great bars and fantastic coffee, while the locals are reputed to be some of the friendliest and most welcoming in the world, and certainly haven’t lost their party spirit. It’s no wonder the national tourism board has adopted as its saying, “The only risk is wanting to stay.”

“Santa Marta, Colombia,” by Ben Bowes

VIVA’s new Colombia Adventure Guide is available in a variety of e-book applications directly from VIVA, as well as in print format from Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble.